Today we went to visit Cu Chi, where you can find the infamous cu chi tunnels. Bright and early we were on the bus and heading on the hour and a half drive with little to no expectations. We passed cows, rice paddies, and what looked like little restaurants with hammocks instead of chairs (why don't we have this in America??). It was interesting to watch the urban sprawl turn more and more to rural country side. As many stray dogs as there are in the city, there are way more out there.
Being in cu chi near the tunnels was amazing. First off, all you see is this pretty thick forest. It has finally grown back from being completely barren from being bombed and blown to bits. We gathered in a little building where we watched a movie about the tunnels with a heavy Vietnamese bias. And while it's completely warranted considering where we are, it was certainly a change from the usual presentation. "Like a band of Devils, [the Americans] shot into woman and children." Dr. Berman said a few things about the tunnel and then we were off. They have widened the tunnels for tourists, and even so, many of us had dirty knees by the end.
They showed us how they hid the entrances and air vents. Incredible. A man popped out of one of the hidden entrances, and then just as quickly the entrance disappeared again. They were brilliant and thought out everything they did with such calculation, it's no wonder why it was so effective.
Being fairly claustrophobic, I had no desire to go into any of the tunnels. But as we got to the first tunnel, I remembered Mike (one of the trip's advisor) telling us that was something we really had to do. So I took a deep breath and went down the steps and it let into a little room. The rooms they created to live in underground were incredible. Ok, this isn't pleasant, but I'm still ok. Oh wait, we haven't actually gotten to an actual tunnel yet? Oh. Well then. I was directly to the tiny hole in the wall and the panic set in. I followed Malik and, not gonna lie, I stared at his butt the entire time. Stare at Malik, don't look up, down, or to either side. It was short all things considered, but as soon as I got out I volunteered as a coat rack to hold people's things because I was not going into another tunnel. Rachel and I hung out with Bryan (the program coordinator who came on the trip with us) as we all avoided going in any of the other tunnels. Feel free to read everyone else's blog if you're interested in hearing about the other tunnels! I heard there were bats in one of them!
Dr. Berman had told us more than once to try and get away from people and listen to the nature and imagine going through the forest without any trails. While there wasn't really anywhere to go, staying out of the tunnels gave me a chance to really look around and think about what had happened here. It made me feel sick. And I was amazed because no one else seemed at all upset. People were joking around and so on, and there I was feeling sick. I'm not trying to sound like I somehow had this insightful perspective far superior to others, but why was no one else upset?? This is a battlefield where people on both sides murdered each other! And the Vietnamese tour guide who worked there was so proud of everything! The tunnels, the traps (he was even making jokes when showing how they worked), how clever they were, he talked about it all with a smile. I think both sides did horrible things, but this was just a little grotesque in my mind.
Another thing that blew my mind was how willing they were to turn it into a tourist site with a shop halfway through with drinks and trinkets to buy. It all just seemed so irreverent and out of place. But no one seemed bothered about that either.
By the end, I just wanted nothing more than to get out of there. I was so upset about it, but I was party of one as everyone joked around like nothing was different. I asked Dr. Berman what it was like for him coming back (he fought in the Vietnam War when he was 22), and I think he is one of the bravest people. He said it's different coming back with us, especially all chatting and such, but I don't think I would have been able to do it. It made it that much more meaningful going with him.
When we did go, we got lunch on the Saigon river, which was beautiful. The plants on the river were so thick it looked like a field instead of water.
We then stopped by a temple that commemorated the people who died during the war. It was beautiful. I didn't go in because I was only wearing shorts, but even the outside was beautiful.
We then made a quick stop at a massive district cemetery of the fighters killed in the war. The graves seemed endless. We saw the stone of a kid who was only 17. I walked with Danielle and we just soaked it in. It was really interesting to follow the war on their side. Brought a lot of perspective. So did talking to Dr. Berman.
So that was the day today. We'll probably go out tonight to a club called Vuvuzela.
Also karaoke everywhere, no joke.
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